Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How do you place an order?
A: Derale Performance is solely a manufacturer of performance cooling products and does not deal directly in the retail market. We sell through a range of both distributors and dealers all around the world. You can find more information of where you can purchase Derale products in the 'Where to Buy' section of the Support Center.

Q: As a dealer of Derale products, how can I add my company as a dealer on the Derale website?
A: Our list of distributors and dealers is constantly being updated. We would be more than happy to add your company's information and a link to your website in the "Where to Buy" section to help direct our customers to a dealer closest to them. To request to be added as a dealer, please email our Sales Department from our Contact page.

Q: How can I find out more about Derale products?
A: You can download our most recent catalog under Downloads in the Media page.

Q: I have a defective product. How do I get it replaced?
A: If your Derale product is somehow defective or was damaged in shipment, there are a couple ways to have it replaced. The first method is the most recommended as it is the quickest and easiest way to get a new replacement part. You will need to contact the company you originally purchased the part from and process the defective part claim with their returns department. They will usually be very helpful in getting a new product to you as soon as possible to replace your defective unit. If for any reason you are unable to return it through them, you can contact us directly and speak with one of our Technical Support Representatives and they will walk you through the process of replacing a defective product. This process does require the customer to ship the product back to our Returns Department for inspection before we can ship out a new replacement unit. We understand that this may leave you without a vital cooling component on your vehicle for a couple weeks which is why we recommend first attempting to replace the part through the company you purchased it from.

Q: What components on my vehicle do I need to worry about keeping cool?
A: For most applications the main components of a vehicle that are going to produce heat consist of the engine, automatic transmission, power steering, fuel, and differentials. Basically any component with moving parts is going to produce heat. In most cases this heat is anticipated and accommodated for from the factory. But when a vehicle is used in an application that it was not originally designed for, or it is being modified to an extent that exceeds the factory specifications, it is very important to ensure each component will remain cool even under extreme conditions. Cooling products extend the life of seals, bearings, clutches, & hoses, and allow the transmission, engine, power steering pump, etc. to operate as designed within their tolerable temperature ranges.

Q: What do I do if I have a question that is not listed here in the FAQ's?
A: If you have a question that you cannot find the answer for on our website, please feel free to contact us and we will be more than willing to help you with anything we can. You can email us or find our phone number from the 'Company Information' link in the Support Center.

Q: What is the warranty on Derale products?
A: All Derale products hold a 1 year manufacturer's limited warranty. If you are experiencing any problems with our product and need to have it replaced under warranty, we recommend contacting the company you originally purchased the product through in order to have them process the return.

Q: My controller doesn’t work, why?
A: First we need to verify the controller has been installed correctly. Once that has been gone over we can go through a series of simple diagnostic functionality tests. The first of which being the Override test which is simply applying 12 volts to the green wire/override post (PWM) while the controller is powered up (ignition key in the on position). This should trigger 60% capacity of Fan number 1 or both fans if you have the PWM. Once that test is complete we will move on to the sensor function test. To do this we need to short the sensor circuit which on the Hi Amp controllers is achieved by either cutting the wires and touching them together or putting a pin or needle through the wires to effectively short the sensor. This will trigger both fans at 100% capacity. On the PWM you simply use a jumper wire to cross the ground post to the sensor positive post and it will trigger the fans at 100% capacity. Once we have both tests finished and passed we will then recalibrate the controller to its lowest trigger setting by turning the adjustment screw 25 turns counter clockwise. Then, start the engine and watch for the fans to trigger and what temperature they trigger at. In the case they trigger too early, you can start adjusting the adjustment screw clockwise until you are happy with where they are. If the controller fails one or both functionality tests be sure to double check ALL connections and grounds made to rule out any installation error.

Q: Why won’t my second fan trigger?
A: First we need to verify the controller has been installed correctly. Once that has been gone over we can go through a series of simple diagnostic functionality tests. The first of which being the Override test which is simply applying 12 volts to the green wire/override post (PWM) while the controller is powered up (ignition key in the on position). This should trigger 60% capacity of Fan number 1 or both fans if you have the PWM. Once that test is complete we will move on to the sensor function test. To do this we need to short the sensor circuit which on the Hi Amp controllers is achieved by either cutting the wires and touching them together or putting a pin or needle through the wires to effectively short the sensor. This will trigger both fans at 100% capacity. On the PWM you simply use a jumper wire to cross the ground post to the sensor positive post and it will trigger the fans at 100% capacity. Once we have both tests finished and passed we will then recalibrate the controller to its lowest trigger setting by turning the adjustment screw 25 turns counter clockwise. Then, start the engine and watch for the fans to trigger and what temperature they trigger at. In the case they trigger too early, you can start adjusting the adjustment screw clockwise until you are happy with where they are.

Q: Why wont the override trigger both fans on my dual fan set up?
A: The Hi Amp Dual Fan controllers are designed to only trigger fan #1 at 60% capacity.  If you have a PWM (16795 or 16796) both fans should be turning at 60% capacity. If you are using a PWM and it is not triggering both fans check all connections and verify the fan motor is still functional by bringing it power straight from the battery.

Q: The override works but the fans never come on when the motor is running without the AC on, why?
A: First we need to verify the controller has been installed correctly. Once that has been gone over we can go through a series of simple diagnostic functionality tests. The first of which being the Override test which is simply applying 12 volts to the green wire/override post (PWM) while the controller is powered up (ignition key in the on position). This should trigger 60% capacity of Fan number 1 or both fans if you have the PWM. Once that test is complete we will move on to the sensor function test. To do this we need to short the sensor circuit which on the Hi Amp controllers is achieved by either cutting the wires and touching them together or putting a pin or needle through the wires to effectively short the sensor. This will trigger both fans at 100% capacity. On the PWM you simply use a jumper wire to cross the ground post to the sensor positive post and it will trigger the fans at 100% capacity. Once we have both tests finished and passed we will then recalibrate the controller to its lowest trigger setting by turning the adjustment screw 25 turns counter clockwise. Then, start the engine and watch for the fans to trigger and what temperature they trigger at. In the case they trigger too early, you can start adjusting the adjustment screw clockwise until you are happy with where they are.

Q: Everything works but the fans don’t come on too late. I have recalibrated it per the instructions and still nothing. What do I do?
A: From here we would recalibrate the controller by turning the adjustment screw 25 turns counter clockwise to set it at the lowest trigger temperature. If that doesn’t remedy the issue we will then assess the probe placement and determine if there is an issue and offer a solution.

Q: I have a bad sensor, can I buy a new one?
A: First we need to verify the controller has been installed correctly. Once that has been gone over we can go through a series of simple diagnostic functionality tests. The first of which being the Override test which is simply applying 12 volts to the green wire/override post (PWM) while the controller is powered up (ignition key in the on position). This should trigger 60% capacity of Fan number 1 or both fans if you have the PWM. Once that test is complete we will move on to the sensor function test. To do this we need to short the sensor circuit which on the Hi Amp controllers is achieved by either cutting the wires and touching them together or putting a pin or needle through the wires to effectively short the sensor. This will trigger both fans at 100% capacity. On the PWM you simply use a jumper wire to cross the ground post to the sensor positive post and it will trigger the fans at 100% capacity. Once we have both tests finished and passed we will then recalibrate the controller to its lowest trigger setting by turning the adjustment screw 25 turns counter clockwise. Then, start the engine and watch for the fans to trigger and what temperature they trigger at. In the case they trigger too early, you can start adjusting the adjustment screw clockwise until you are happy with where they are.

Q: Can I use a 16750 on my PWM?
A: No. the PWM requires a temp reading that is directly from the coolant in order to function properly. If need be, a thread in adapter for the factory sensor is part # 16737 but has to maintain a place that is directly fed heat from the coolant not from the engine block, intake manifold or cylinder head.

Q: Why is my controller clicking?
A: This can occur if there is a poor ground or bad connection made and can potentially damage the controller and in some cases the damage can be terminal. Be sure that all the connections made are sturdy and well made.

Q: Why is my controller/fan making a whining noise?
A: this noise is just in the capacitor in the fan or the fan controller depending on the controller. If the fan is working and seeming to function properly it is a non-issue as far as functionality goes.

Q: I have a 2-speed fan, can I run just one speed? 
A: Yes. If you want to only run low speed simply roll up the high-speed wire and safety it off and only apply power and ground for the low speed wire (grey wire). If you desire to only run the fan at its highest speed then you need to bring power to both the high and low speed wires (both gray and brown), ground the fan and you’ll be all set.

Q: Will the Hi Amp or PWM controller run a 2-speed fan?
A: Yes. The Hi Amp controller will run each speed as if it were two separate fans meaning the Fan #1 wire would feed the Low speed wire (gray) and the Fan #2 wire would feed the high-speed wire (brown). The PWM will also run the 2-speed fan but since the controller will modulate the speed on its own you would only need to run both high and low speed wires to the single Fan Positive post on the controller.

Q: Is my fan reversible?
A: That is dependent on the model fan. Some fans are as simple as swapping polarity of the wires while other require the blades to be flipped over in addition to swapping the polarity.

Q: What is the difference between 16795 and 16796?
A: While they are both the same PWM controllers as far as the internals are concerned the differences lie in the mounting procedures and methods. A 16796 is specifically designed to integrate into a series of our fan shrouds we produce. The 16795 is designed to be mounted remotely on any vehicle.

Q: My PWM barely moves my fans when I trigger the override and makes a whining noise, what’s wrong with it?
A: In this case we will need to verify the location of the battery in relation to the fan controller. If the battery is more than 5 feet from the controller it most likely needs an additional capacitor to filter the power coming from the battery due to the distance between them.